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Nov
16

Domaine Hubert Lamy “En Remilly” Saint-Aubin Premier Cru 2016

Climate change and talent are transforming St. Aubin. Olivier Lamy at Domaine Hubert Lamy is a leading light in this appellation, alongside the likes of Pierre Yves Colin-Morey. St. Aubin,

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Nov
4

Eva Fricke Krone Riesling 2017

A surfeit of Riesling is never a bad thing. It’s too bad we don’t drink more of the stuff, particularly from Germany. The range of Riesling produced in that country

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Aug
25

Is Chardonnay the Most Diverse Grape in the World?

To set this post, I have purposefully asked a complex question with a complex answer. Despite its seemingly simple base form, Chardonnay does not reveal itself with simple explanations. Chardonnay

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Aug
9

Benjamin Leroux “Les Mitans” Volnay Premier Cru 2016

Most of our world and our lives are occupied with narrowness. Linear processes, limited ways of executing tasks, myopic behavioural expectations, risk-aversion to steer clear of the wrath of the

Grivot is one of my favourite producers of Vosne. Their Vosne village is always outstanding, but this single vineyard from 2011 (a challenging vintage) was full of game, ripe red fruit and intangible greatness. The Pratt vineyard from Littorai is epic. Pratt is perhaps the most aromatic vineyard in the Sonoma Coast (or close to it) and Ted Lemon's version, with its refined tannic structure and tremendous lift, is serious and beautiful with a touch of bottle age.

Jul
28

Some New World Wines Showing Favourably Alongside Burgundy

Wine competition is more intense now than any time in the history of the commercial wine industry. This has pushed quality in every region higher and faster – even a

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Jul
21

Sandlands Red Table Wine 2017

Sandlands “Red Table Wine” is the archetype of what a great California red should be. Fruity and bright, fresh, a supple tannic grip, and mid-palate depth from that California sun

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Jun
30

Two Modernist Brunellos from 2004

There is, understandably, a cult for the great traditionalists across the storied regions of Europe. Such wines tend to express terroir more consistently and transparently. Brunello di Montalcino is a

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Jun
16

Stella di Compalto Rosso di Montalcino 2013 and Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2011

Truly great Sangiovese is exceptionally rare for the potential of the grape. It should produce a wine of elegance, aromatics, and mid-weight purity. It should embrace its acidity. It should

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May
31

A Parade of Barolo

Never-tiring and always inspiring, I’ve been fortunate to drink several top Barolo producers and crus in the last few months. Cavallotto remains a favourite producer, and the estate’s two great single-vineyard

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May
20

Luigi Tecce Satyricon 2013

A short walk from the forum, a pantry-sized wine shop faces a busy, dirty, central Roman thoroughfare. Inside, I find a small selection of alternative Italian producers with no centralizing