Aug
25
Is Chardonnay the Most Diverse Grape in the World?
To set this post, I have purposefully asked a complex question with a complex answer. Despite its seemingly simple base form, Chardonnay does not reveal itself with simple explanations. Chardonnay
Aug
9
Benjamin Leroux “Les Mitans” Volnay Premier Cru 2016
Most of our world and our lives are occupied with narrowness. Linear processes, limited ways of executing tasks, myopic behavioural expectations, risk-aversion to steer clear of the wrath of the
Jul
28
Some New World Wines Showing Favourably Alongside Burgundy
Wine competition is more intense now than any time in the history of the commercial wine industry. This has pushed quality in every region higher and faster – even a
Jul
21
Sandlands Red Table Wine 2017
Sandlands “Red Table Wine” is the archetype of what a great California red should be. Fruity and bright, fresh, a supple tannic grip, and mid-palate depth from that California sun
Jun
30
Two Modernist Brunellos from 2004
There is, understandably, a cult for the great traditionalists across the storied regions of Europe. Such wines tend to express terroir more consistently and transparently. Brunello di Montalcino is a
Jun
16
Stella di Compalto Rosso di Montalcino 2013 and Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2011
Truly great Sangiovese is exceptionally rare for the potential of the grape. It should produce a wine of elegance, aromatics, and mid-weight purity. It should embrace its acidity. It should
May
31
A Parade of Barolo
Never-tiring and always inspiring, I’ve been fortunate to drink several top Barolo producers and crus in the last few months. Cavallotto remains a favourite producer, and the estate’s two great single-vineyard
May
20
Luigi Tecce Satyricon 2013
A short walk from the forum, a pantry-sized wine shop faces a busy, dirty, central Roman thoroughfare. Inside, I find a small selection of alternative Italian producers with no centralizing
May
5
Is Pinot Noir the Most Interesting Grape in the World?
This question may seem audacious, but it deserves serious consideration. The criteria for interest are (1) diversity of flavour, texture, and structural profiles; (2) that diversity derives from both site
Apr
8
Cote de Beaune Blanc: The Last Four Years, the Next Four Years
To confound the wine world, the 2016 vintage’s April frosts reduced yields about 10-fold in the Cote de Beaune, accelerating an already meteoric price increase beginning with the 2014 vintage.