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Nov
14

Of Proteus and Chardonnay

Chardonnay is somewhat like a faceless man – it takes on character of site and cellar with uncanny ease. There may be no core essence to Chardonnay but it holds

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Oct
9

Borgo del Tiglio Collio Rosso 2009

Friuli is quintessentially European. Its indigenous grapes hail from the various empires that have ruled it over the centuries: French, Austro-Hungarian, Venetian. The region only became a permanent part of

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Jul
22

Collemattoni Rosso di Montalcino 2015

Brunello di Montalcino can be problematic from a sustainability perspective in that many growers farm conventionally and monoculture is the norm. Organic growing is few and far between, but the

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Jun
30

Domaine de L’Ecu Invictus 2015

Domaine de L’Ecu makes the best Muscadet in France. It has done so since 1972 under the leadership of Guy Bossard. These are iconographic wines that raised the bar for

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Jun
13

Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage 2015

I mostly write about wines of exceptional quality and that I think deserve special notice. I am also usually a significant fan of Alain Graillot – his whole cluster old-vine

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Jun
9

The New Spain Emerging

My previous article on Priorat explained the context of the Spain most of us have come to know, derived from the globalized influence of a limited number of palates seeking

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Jun
1

Priorat: Globalization, Terroir, and The New Wines of Spain

A contradiction lies deep in the heart of wine’s globalization. The standard narrative is that globalization leads to homogenization of wine style and increasing monopolization of distribution. The counter-narrative has

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Apr
27

Ciabot Berton: Barolo from a La Morra Traditionalist

Ciabot Berton are new entrants into British Columbia’s wine market. A recent tasting provided an opportunity to explore a range of blended and single vineyard Barolos from various recent vintages.

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Apr
15

Sextant Bourgogne Rouge 2015

There are not many naturalist wines in Burgundy. Currently, only Pacalet has broad notoriety, though his wines are extremely expensive. The region’s harsh climate is one reason, as is the

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Apr
6

Idlewild “The Bird Flora & Fauna Red” 2015

The exploration of California’s alternative and forgotten finds is in full maturity. Wine lists in San Francisco’s Mission district are replete with such offerings, the best of which are delicious,