A Victorian Wine Tasting: Supporting Victims of the Aussie Bushfires

Last week I attended a fundraiser for the Victorian bushfires which devastated southern Australia recently, destroying many homes and lives. And in true Aussie style with good spirit and outgoing support, we all donated money and collectively consumed some pretty amazing donated wines from the Jug Shop. I’ve always respected fellow wine blogger Ed over at Wino Sapien, who not only blogged about this disaster but has been constant source of inspiration for great Australian wine – so I dedicate these notes to him and his fellow Aussies. Since I tasted so many wines I will provide only brief writeups for the few that I felt were particularly interesting or unique in some way (my favorites are asterixed). Off we go to the Yarra Valley…

Yarra Valley

Tin Cows Pinot Noir 2004: poopy, very tart, very balanced, excellent integrity. Very Good+
Yering Station Pinot Noir 2005: very earthy and savory with subtle fruit. A nice easy drinker. Very Good.
*Yeringberg Pinot Noir 2000: I’ve been impressed with Yeringberg before and this is no exception. A really fantastic pinot with barny, strawberry-rhubarb notes, but also a distinct coolness, and almost mintyness, to the fruit. Very smooth and long in the mouth. Killer texture. Excellent.
Stathewen Hills “Patterson Lake” Shiraz 2005: A very herbal and savory wine, with distinct notes of menthol. Very restrained shiraz with almost no residual sugar or sweetness. Very Good+

Bendigo

I seem to really enjoy this region.
Balgownie Cabernet Sauvignon 2005: chalky tannins, menthol, woody, very long. Very Good+ to Excellent
*Passing Clouds Reserve Shiraz 2005: killer shiraz – baking spices, wood, blackberry – real power but also real restraint and a beautiful tannic structure. Absolutely wonderful. Excellent.
Water Wheel Memsie White Blend 2007: Sparkly rich with a big orchard-fruit mid-palate. Mouth-filling off-dry fruit. Very Good.

Heathcote

Occams Razor Shiraz 2005: a very solid structural wine that is dusty and spicy. Fruit is restrained, but will show more with a bit more bottle age to soften the tannins. Very Good to Very Good+
Redbank The Anvil Heathcote Shiraz 2003: spicy nose, a long drawn palate that is incredibly consistent from nose to finish. Very Good+
Two Hands Max’s Garden Shiraz 2005: A bigger style than the others, but not at all a fruit bomb. Very fresh and bright with an extremely solid core of acidity. This freshness keeps the wine from cloying and will probably allow it to fully integrate within a few years. Could become special. Very Good+.

Pyrenees

*Terlato & Chapoutier Malakoff Shiraz 2006: Pretty. Very elegant and lovely. Spicy and meaty too with impeccable balance. Excellent.

Western Victoria

Mt. Langhi Cliff Edge Riesling 2008: Very different from most Aussie Riesling. Off-dry rather than dry. But, sharp and steely with intense peachy and pear-like orchard fruit notes with hints of citrus. Enjoyable and easy drinking, but I prefer the Clare Valley style. Very Good.

Those were my favourites of the show, very few of which I had even heard of let alone tasted before. What struck me about the wines was their tendency towards savoryness and restraint on the fruit. Not at all your typical Aussie wine that you see in the North American market. I was consistenly impressed. My heart goes out to all the families who have suffered in this tragedy and I hope this little event made a touch of difference.

A Day in Napa: Nickel & Nickel

Setting out from the city over the Bay Bridge we were greeted with a fortuitous dash of sunlight. By the time we reached Napa, the clouds were in full remission and the sun set forth to etch out a beautiful day in the valley. After driving past fields of vines dotted with flowering mustard plants, we pulled up to an unassuming red barn for our first appointment of the day.


Nickel & Nickel is, as I have mentioned before, an off-shoot of Napa’s Far Niente. Whereas Far Niente focuses on a single estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, the concept behind Nickel & Nickel is to create single varietal wines from single vineyards from the best sites across Napa and Sonoma. On Saturday they were pouring five of their single vineyard Cabs, along with a sampling of a few other varietals. On drinking the wines I was struck by the consistent attention to detail and restraint, both of which reflect the grounded and friendly group of individuals who come together to produce these thoughtful renditions of the classic noble grapes.

We started the day outside with the 2006 Truchard Vineyard Chardonnay from Carneros, which was clean and crisp with intelligent depth and roundness produced not from malolactic fermentation, but from the ripeness of the fruit itself. I think, perhaps, that the acidity demands a proper food pairing, but the wine is lively and accentuated on its own. A very nicely done bottle of wine. Very Good+ to Excellent.

Next on the list, and inside the barn, was the 2005 Copper Streak Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, a wine made in the Stag’s Leap district at a special and very small low-yielding vineyard at the base of the Shafer property. On the nose I found the classic woody cedar notes to be intricately layered with forest-floor and savory herb notes. What seems subtle up front becomes truly expansive on the mid-palate, with cassis, earth, cedar and mint dancing counterpoint and constantly evolving. The finish, while long, promises so much more with bottle age. I would even go so far as claiming this wine to be a long-lost sibling to a left bank Bordeaux. Atypical for California, and a stunning amalgam of fruit, structure, restraint and elegance. Excellent+. $90.

The 2005 Regusci Vineyard Block 4 Cabernet Sauvignon could be described as the more outgoing and fun-loving Stag’s Leap District sister to the more brooding and contemplative Copper Streak. This cab is soft and up front on the nose with distinct red berries and cherries making way for a solid, but easy drinking tannic structure that provides oomph without getting in the way of immediate drinkability. This is unmistakably Californian, and certainly will be enjoyed by those seeking classic Napa cab. Very Good+. $90.

Jumping over to the west side of the valley we next tasted the 2005 Witz End Vineyard Cabernet from Rutherford. This had sweet black cherry fruit throughout the nose and palate, with rich spice notes joining in to add complexity. This is very much a Rutherford Cab, which are a bit too sweet for my tastes. I also didn’t find this as well structured as either of the first two cabs, with the Copper Streak being the standout in that dimension. Nonetheless, this will satisfy those who look for the sweet fruit element in their wine. However, I would recommend the Regusci over this for fruit forwardness and drinkability. Very Good to Very Good+. $90.

Before heading over to taste the last two Cabs we gave the 2005 Suscol Ranch Merlot and the 2006 Ponzo Vineyard Zinfandel a sniff and sip. The Suscol Merlot has its source in the Southern Napa Valley. This wine, with its earthy and dense dark-fruit nose, was the original inspiration for Nickel & Nickel. The palate was jammy but supple with a quality earthy and dusty tannic backbone. I love when merlot is done right – with the right structure the soft and pretty fruit becomes grounded and avoids the cloying sweetness that plagues the average California merlot. Very nicely done: for the real merlot lover. Very Good+ to Excellent. $55.

Similarly, the Ponzo zinfandel avoided what can make zin a controversial grape: the tendency towards high alcohol and overly sweet, super-ripe fruit. The Ponzo vineyard is located in the Russian River Valley at a site where the grapes ripen more evenly than is common for zinfandel. This allows Nickel & Nickel to keep the alcohol at a relatively sane (for zin) 14.9% abv. This has far more structure and tannin than most zins and completely avoids any residual heat on the finish. Still filled with juicy and spicy flavours and aromas, this wine allows the skeptical drinker to experience the joys of zin, minus the set-backs. Other zin-loving drinkers may find this a bit too restrained or tannic for their tastes. Very Good. $48.

Stepping outside onto the crush-pad my colleague Martin and I sampled the two remaining Cabs. First up was the forward Oakville 2005 John C. Sullenger Vineyard Cabernet with its classic oakville velvet texture and focus. As Martin commented, this was easy to drink, focused, and linear. I would add that there was a distinct oak character, but that this didn’t overwhelm the herbal blackberry elements. Nicely done, even if not as expansive as the Copper Streak. In the end, its linearity is its charm. Very Good+ to Excellent. $90.

Concluding this Cabernet extravaganza was the 2005 Vogt Vineyard Cabernet from Howell Mountain. For those who aren’t aware, Howell mountain is known, even more than most mountain sites, for its massive tannins due to the increased exposure to sunlight and high elevation. This wine did not dissapoint in that regard. Here we had a massive bruiser of a wine with incredible richness: chocolate and cassis predominated. I would describe this wine as ‘brambly’ and huge. Not for the faint of heart, but power lovers will lap this up. Excellent to Excellent+. $90.

Two hours later we had finally tasted through the fantastic selection of wines and developed a sense of the Nickel & Nickel Style: balance, restraint, focus, and dedication to the unique characteristics of a particular site. There was not a bad wine amongst the bunch and I commend Nickel & Nickel for proving the singularity of some of Napa and Sonoma’s greatest terroirs. Thanks kindly to the winery for giving us the opportunity to taste through such a wide variety of wines. Up next: Cakebread…

Chile vs. France


So my friend who has lived in Chile for a couple years and recently returned to Vancouver and myself decided to set up a Chile vs. France wine-off where we would compare red blends from the two countries. Luckily for me, my friend brought back a couple wines that are pretty hard, if not impossible, to find in Canada. I brought two aged Bordeauxs to the table. It was very interesting to compare two regions distinctly embedded in their terroir, and yet reaching internationally in their appeal. We started with the Bordeaux’s…

Wine #1 Clos L’Eglise 1999
This Bordeaux from the Cotes de Castillon had a nice garnet colour and a nose of cherry and tobacco, which later with air exploded into a super-coffee/mocha monster. The palate brought tobacco, cherry, leaves, and moderate tannins, and again with air this expanded into a mocha-fest. I think this could do with a little more time in the bottle, but a good decant will bring out a lot of the flavour. A blend of 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. I enjoyed this, and in better years I’m sure this can be fantastic.

Very Good+
$60 at BCLDB

Wine #2: Chateau Grand Pontet 1998
Here we have a wine from St. Emillon with a nose of subdued blackberry and maple. The colour was light-ish with a medium red fading to a light browny-red on the edges. This was a bit of a sleeper: dissapointing at first, but with 2-3 hours air opening to be the best wine of the night. The palate was soft, but slightly tannic, with licorice, mineral, cigar box, and chalky limestone. These were such smooth and subtle flavours that they really highlighted this wine’s elegance. Predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon.

Excellent (but needs decanting)
$70 at BCLDB

Wine #3: Almaviva Epu 2001
This wine is Almaviva’s second wine (Epu means “second”), and seems to be unavailable in North America. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenere, this had a nose of leather, mint and typical funky Chilean fruit. The palate was all chocolate, mint, toast, and blackberry. Very tasty, and while lacking the complexity of the Bordeaux’s this was excellent value and tastes a lot more expensive than it is.

Very Good+
$30 in Chile

Wine #4: Torres Manso de Velasco Cabernet Sauvignon Viejas Vinas 2005
A wine from Curico, a southerly region in Chile, this cab had a nose of flowers, game, cedar and pepper. The palte again brought funky chilean fruit, chocolate, balckbery, and had really nice concentration. A bit awkward upon opening, the second day saw the wine somewhat smoothed out and much more mocha-like. However, this probably needs some time in the bottle to show its full potential. Good, but not drinking as well as the Epu.

Very Good+
~$45 in Chile

An Ojai Trio

Ojai Vineyards is one of California’s more controversial wine producers. The winemaker, Adam Tolmach made his name with high octane alcoholic super intense wines. Later, he wrote an article decrying the overuse of alcohol in California wine. So, where does he sit now? It seems that he is planning on restraining his winemaking. The vintages and wines I will be tasting are pre-declaration, however, so it will be interesting to see how they turn out. As a note, NONE of these wines had alcohol percentages listed (despite the BC law otherwise), hmmmm.


Wine #1: Ojai Vineyards Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay ‘Clos Pepe’ Vineyard 2005

Here we have a nose of toasted nuts, mainly almonds, and rich round apple and pear. The palate was replete with pineapple, toast, banana, and citrus – predominantly lime. With a nice balance of acidity and lushness, this wine reminded me of a perfect meringue. Full and long in the mouth, with great punch and clarity.

Excellent
~$50 at Marquis


Wine #2: Ojai Vineyards Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir ‘Clos Pepe’ Vineyard 2004

The nose was all spice and strawberry – in fact I detected a very distinct blend of mulling spices, making this a great Christmas wine. The palate was actually less fruity than expected, and had great notes of cinnamon, clove, orange rind (dried and slightly bitter), and musty earth. I really enjoyed the palate – it was a cut above most New World pinots I have had. There was a touch of heat on the back end, but this was not at all offensive or extreme. And, it was freakin’ amazing with Foie Gras

Excellent
~$50 at Marquis


Wine #3: Ojai Vineyards Santa Barbara County Syrah ‘White Hawk’ Vineyard 2004

Here is where I began to understand Ojai’s reputation. This was a mother of a syrah: a huge nose of roasted red fruits such as cherry, chocolate, game and scorched earth. Very big and juicy, almost creamy with rich chocolatey and dried fruit flavours on the palate. Very tasty, but too alcoholic and big for me – even unbalanced. The extraction is a little crazy and overwhelmed the palate somewhat. Maybe with a super rich red meat dish this would work better.

Very Good to Very Good+
~$50 at Marquis

So, in the end I was quite impressed with this Ojai trio, and didn’t think they should be that controversial, except for the Syrah. I definitely recommend seeking these guys out and giving them a try, no matter what your predilections. You may, in the end, not like the wines, but you will learn something in the process.

Foster’s Wine Estates Premium Tasting

Tasting events come in many shapes and sizes: winemaker’s lunches, wine store tasting bars, festivals, and of course the buyer’s tasting. I had the good fortune to be invited to the lattermost event hosted by Foster’s Wine Estates just in time for the Christmas stocking season. As an event, the tasting room was quite ‘tastefully’ set-up at the District 319 theatre at, of all places, Main and Hastings. A long row of premium Californian and Australian wines sat on the large concrete bar at the centre of the room, prompting me invitingly when I arrived. While I tasted the wines from lighter to fuller bodied, I will order my tasting notes by producer. Overall it was a successful and well-designed event. Nearly all the wines listed below are ‘spec’ items, which means you will have to go to a private liquor store to obtain them.

Beringer Sbragia Limited Release Chardonnay 2005

Toasted nose and a nice rich palate with orchard fruit. Round, but not flabby, this is great for the style, but in my personal opinion the Private Reserve chardonnay is a better buy. A lot less boring than the Wolf Blass Chard I also tasted (note below).

Very Good+
$50

Beringer Napa Valley Pinot Noir 2006

Rich light red fruit on the nose, with a little chocolate and pepper added on the palate. This had a bit more delicacy, and a lot more ripeness, than the cool climate pinots I also tasted, but ultimately I thought this was a pretty standard and not so interesting pinot.

Good+
$30

Beringer Napa Valley Merlot 2005

A spicy, woody cab-franc like nose with blackberry fruit. On the palate was a nice richness, a little leather, and quite firm tannins (probably brought in by the small percentage of blended cab-franc and cab sauv ). I thought this was very tasty and I highly recommend it for the price. Beringer seems to know how to make a good merlot.

Very Good+
$30

Beringer Steinhauser Ranch NV Cabernet Sauvignon 2002

Sweet black fruit, oak and vanilla on the nose. The palate had cassis, a kiss of vanilla, blueberry and bitter cocoa. Good, but frankly not terrifically fascinating. Another big Napa cab.

Very Good
$84

Chateau St. Jean La Petite Etoile Fumé Blanc 2005

This had a big smoky nose with a touch of oak. The oak gave the wine roundness, thickness and depth on the palate, much more than you would expect from a traditional unoaked Fume Blanc. The palate also brought out citrusy tropical fruit flavours and was generally crisp and alive. This Russian River Valley wine also had excellent structure on the mid-palate and the finish. Another stand-out of the tasting for me. Recommended. Outstanding value.

Very Good+ to Excellent
$35

Chateau St. Jean Belle Terre Chardonnay 2005

The first sniff exposed a caramelized nose with real density. Apple, mango and papaya filled the mid-palate and a decent, but not intense, core of acidity drew the wine through to the finish without palate fatigue. Well done – the best chard of the tasting.

Excellent
$44

Chateau St. Jean Sonoma Pinot Noir 2006

Pure simple strawberry fruit. Very chewy and concentrated with a bit of pepper on the palate. Good for the price, but simple and a little clumsy right now. I think this needs bottle age.

Very Good
$30

Chateau St. Jean Sonoma County Merlot 2005

A nose of cedar, raspberry and spice – inviting. Typically soft and round easy drinking merlot made for those who like fruity velvet with refined tannins. Decent for me, but nothing special.

Very Good
$46

Chateau St. Jean Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Very nice classic nose of mint and cedar. Built for steak, the palate was juicy and woody with cassis and blackberry. A dry tannic finish. This was blended using grapes from the Alexander Valley, Knights Valley and the Sonoma Valley.

Very Good+
$50

Etude Pinot Noir Rose 2006

Pear and apple on the nose and palate. Smooth and sweet, this is made for those who like sweet easy to drink bubbly. Still, for standard sweet bubbles, this was not over the top.

Good
$30

Etude CN Pinot Gris 2006

From grapes grown in Carneros, this very nice white had an orchard fresh palate replete with round orchard fruits, especially pear. A bit thick fruity palate filled the mouth nicely and was firm enough to suggest a second sip. While this lacks a bit of complexity, it is good for the price.

Very Good
$30

Etude CN Pinot Noir 2005

Here we had a cool climate pinot with an interesting nose of dill and red currant. The palate was peppery and floral, although fairly tannic. This feels a bit tight right now, but it had superb concentration and will probably show well in 2-3 years.

Very Good
$60

Etude Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

This was a favourite of many at the tasting, and it certainly had real potency and a complex layering of flavour. The nose was chocolaty and had rich dark fruit. The palate was incredibly smooth, concentrated and long with chocolate and fig predominating. I detected some heat on the back end however, and thought this was perhaps a little expensive for what you got. Some will love this, though. I prefer more subtlety.

Very Good+
$110

Stag’s Leap Winery Chardonnay 2006

I only know these guys for their fantastic petite sirah; however, I was quite surprised at the style and pizzazz of this chardonnay which was a bridge between new and old world styles. The nose offered buttered apple and pineapple, but the palate had a very nice crispness that was perfect for food. Perhaps too acidic on the mid-palate as a foodless sipper, this will be a fantastic pairing option.

Very Good
$38

St. Clement Cabernet Sauvignon 2002

Classic Napa cab at a ‘good’ price. A big nose of cedar and cassis that was a little clumsier than the St. Jean, but had immediate approachability. The palate remained similar to the nose with cedar wood, blackberry and black current. Drinking well now.

Very Good
$59

St. Clement Oroppas 2004

Oroppas is Sapporo spelled backwards, namely because Beringer purchased this estate from Sapporo. Personally I found that a pretty lame attempt at naming a wine, but at least it tasted good! I found this wine to be very warm with rich chocolate and blackberry aromas. The palate even offered a tinge of black olive, with amazing concentration throughout the palate development. Big and prune-like with a lot of richness, this was still slightly hot on the back end (which I noticed with a number of the wines poured at this event). So, even with its full mouthfeel it is just so dang big that it lacked elegance for me.

Very Good to Very Good+
$76

Taz Cuyama Pinot Noir 2005

Ah, pretty aromatics – I like that. A slightly floral nose with a very smooth and long strawberry palate. Rich and concentrated, this was pleasant but not brilliant. For pinot aficionados, worth a try at the price.

Very Good
$37

Taz Goat Rock Syrah

Gamey and replete with overripe red fruit. The palate was peppery, but too sweet and had unbalanced tannins. Missing something.

Fair
$38

Coldstream Hills Pinot Noir 2006

Coldsteam is an interesting little producer (albeit owned by Foster’s) in the Yarra valley in Australia. I enjoy Australian pinot since it seems to offer something a little different and usually at a pretty good value (pinot tends to be over priced since Sideways). This had a strawberry nose with a distinctly raw character. The palate was very interesting with notes of cigar and tobacco. Has style, but lacks complexity. I also thought it was served a bit too warm.

Good+ to Very Good
$30

Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Ah Coonawara, a great cooler climate region that gets less attention out here than it deserves. I find Wynns to produce pretty good value wines, but this, their top offering, is something special. Eucalyptus and violets on the nose made this very pretty and intensely aromatic. Red and dark berries with cedar filled out the palate. I thought this had great finesse and subtlety with a firm structure and rich flavours. Nonetheless, there is the right level of acidity to carry an entire bottle without food, a rare feat amongst this crowd. Food would, however, certainly enhance this bottle. While tight right now, this will be beautiful in 5+ years. I really liked this wine.

Excellent to Excellent+ (with age)
$75

Rosemount Show Reserve Shiraz 2004

Big and minty with eucalyptus, chocolate and plum. Worth the money if you like the Australian style, but boring to me.

Very Good
$30

Rosemount Balmoral Syrah 2002

I’ve had this before, but it was showing differently this time round. The acidity I remember had really softened and much bigger fruit flavours were coming through. This was sort of like the show reserve with more concentration and length. I don’t think it’s worth the price.

Very Good
$70

Wolf Blass Gold Label Riesling 2005

Clare Valley is at it again, and with a fantastic price to boot. Petrol, clay and rich lime on the nose, the palate expanded this to include some rounder citrus flavours such as grapefruit. There is serious bite on this wine and it will not disappoint a pairing with sushi or Chinese food. I wish more people drank Riesling out here because it really is a perfect wine for the Vancouver food canvass.

Very Good+
$21

Wolf Blass Gold Label Chardonnay 2004

A toasted oak nose with cream rich buttery flavours. With low acidity and a somewhat flabby texture, I was not that impressed. Boring. Some will enjoy.

Good+
$23

Wolf Blass Gold Label Shiraz / Viognier 2005

Certainly not top tier stuff. I think I have been spoiled by Clonakilla here. Nonetheless I enjoyed the floral and pepper notes and thought this was smooth and integrated. Pretty red berries peak out here and there. I like it.

Very Good
$30

Wolf Blass Gold Label Shiraz 2004

Another big spicy black fruits and plum monster. There is oak here too that provides a smooth and easy drinking palate. Not my thing as I really don’t think this’ll pair well with food.

Good+
$30

Wolf Blass Grey Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Here we are. Lovely Eucalyptus cedar nose with great intensity. Cassis and blackberry on the palate. Purity and value – this is a buy.

Very Good+
$36

Wolf Blass Platinum Label Shiraz 2000

I swear I got rubber on the nose here. I have heard that Jancis Robinson also detects rubber components on Stelvin closures. I have never noticed anything like that until now, but it was distinct and certainly there. This sort of ruined the wine for me, which otherwise seemed to have great structure and density with very rich plumy notes and a long finish.

Very Good (but something was up)
$80

Wolf Blass Gold Label Semillon Botrytis 2006

Blech. Sickly sweet. Rich grapefruit and apple. Super sugary and no balance.

Fair
$20

Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz 2004

Rich black fruit, pepper and mint. The palate on this shiraz is not typical Aussie, which is a good thing. This has good balance and acidity and will pair well with a wider range of food than is typical for Australian Shiraz (which normally only goes well with BBQ). I think this wasn’t showing as well as it could have been. But I recognized the quality.

Very Good+
$55

Penfolds RWT Shiraz 2005

The Barossa big boys have arrived. Real blue fruits on this with distinct fig characteristics. Almost raisinated, this is clearly made from super-ripe fruit. Rich, dense and flavourful, this is classic Barossa done well. What it lacks in subtlety it makes up in flavour.

Very Good+ to Excellent
$100+

There we are, another big tasting and a host of wines. I am wondering if there is a more reader friendly format for these types of reviews, but I haven’t come up with one yet. Again, all of these wines should be available at private stores in Vancouver (some will come out in Spring, such as the Riddoch cab). Thanks to Foster’s for hosting the tasting.

Marquis Wine Cellars’ French Fete

Marquis is a special wine store here in Vancouver. They seek out lesser known and high quality producers from around the globe, but especially from france. I have had the good fortune of benefiting from their expertise and recommendations for a couple years now. This event was their celebration of all things French while also being a charity fundraiser for the Fraser Academy – and what could be better than drinking wine for charity!

The event was well constructed and Marquis had plenty of fantastic wine to go around, although I found the importers less impressive. However, one big problem was that nearly all the restaurants who came to show off their wares and provide some bites to accompany the wine ran out of food in ONE HOUR! Yes, one hour. I don’t know what these chefs were thinking, but running out of food at a wine tasting event so close to its opening is a huge faux pas in my books and reflects very poorly on the restaurants (Le Gavroche, Cru, Salt Tasting Room, Provence and Senova ran out of food very quickly while Bistrot Bistro and Benton Brothers cheese had enough for the majority of the evening), especially considering 1. this was a charity event, and 2. all the guests paid $75 each to attend. That said, Marquis itself did a fantastic job and I hope they send out a nasty email to the restaurants chiding them for this ridiculous oversight.

There were quite a few wines, so I will only be discussing those I think were worthy of discussion – which was plenty, and I will divide them as Marquis did by region or by importer (if not provided by Marquis). My notes were pretty concise given the constraints of the event.

Loire

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sevre et maine Sur Lie 2006

A good quality muscadet for the price, I’m afraid I’m not sure this grape is for me: grapefruit and licorice but hot on the palate.

Good+
$19 at Marquis

Reuilly Pinot Gris 2007

Tart, very dry citrus. I found this quite simple and not as flavourful as the last wine.

Fair
$24 at Marquis

Domaine Huards Cour-Cheverney Romarantin 2005

I’d certainly not tried this grape before and found it quite unique: petrol, apple, pear on the nose with a floral palate and a thick texture.

Very Good
$23 at Marquis

Domaine Huet Demi-Sec Vouvray 2006

Huet is one of the top producers in Vouvray so I was excited to taste this. Strangely I got blue-cheese on the nose with grapefruit and other rounded citrus (the sweetness cut the tartness well). But what really made the wine stand out was its silky and subtle texture that filled the mouth beautifully. Thick and ripe, but balanced.

Very Good+
$44 at Marquis

Domaine Guion Bourgueil Cabernet Franc 2005

Smells like a wet forest floor. A very woody classic cab franc with nice aromatics and full flavour. Fantastic for the price.

Very Good
$18 at Marquis

Natter Sancerre Rouge 2006

I’ve never had a Sancerre Rouge before so this was pretty exciting. Made from Pinot Noir and very much like a Burgundy Village wine with its strawberry funk nose. However, the palate was very savory and perhaps a little too dry and not delicate enough for me. Unique though, and worth a try.

Good+
$32 at Marquis

Henry Pelle Mentou-Salon Rouge 2005

Another Loire red with dusty red fruit and savory pepper filling the nose and palate. A simple but incredibly food friendly wine that went fantastically with the 1 bite of food I had that evening. Get this to pair with a salty and rich dish.

Very Good
$28 at Marquis

Alsace

Barmes-Buecher Pinot d’Alsace 2004

This is a wine to get those who drink only sweetened alcohol into something a little more serious. So, while sweet, this is full and flavourful with orchard fruit, particularly pear. Nice mouthfeel too.

Very Good
$27 at Marquis

Albert Mann Pinot Blanc/Auxerrois 2007

Citrus and apple dominate. I found this standard and a little boring.

Good
$26 at Marquis

Albert Mann Rosenberg Riesling 2006

Classic petrolly nose with lime on the palate. This was unbalanced and I would prefer a German Riesling over this for the price.

Very Good
$48 at Marquis

Weinbach Riesling Cuvee St. Catherine 2004

This was serious stuff and had a beautifully intense and aromatic nose of petrol and clay. While off-dry, the sweetness was very subtle and the palate sparkled with minerals and tight acidic structure. Balanced. A very nice riesling in a different style than I am used to (being a German and Austrian fan).

Very Good+
$59 at Marquis

Burgundy

Arnaud Ente Aligote 2005

Big toasty almond nose with superb depth and concentration but also bright and balanced acidity. I’ve never had Aligote like this – a find of the show and worth every penny.

Excellent
$40 at Marquis

Potel-Aviron Fleurie Vielles Vignes Beaujolais 2005

A Beaujolais Cru, and a good one at that. Licorice and strawberry, very bright but not over the top acidity. This is very food friendly and could age for some time. Also, a good value.

Very Good
$33 at Marquis

Tollot-Beaut Bourgogne Rouge 2005

A basic red Burgundy with funky roasted fruit on the nose. Delicate and aromatic, I enjoy this sort of thing a lot more than the new world style of Pinot. Again, food friendly.

Very Good
$39 at Marquis

Bordeaux

D’Agassac Haut-Medoc 2005

Very approachable now with classic cedar and cassis on the nose. Very expressive, smooth and balanced. A good place to see the potential of the vintage young.

Very Good+
$43 at Marquis

Gree-Laroque, Bordeaux Superier 2005

Spicey dark fruits. Tannic now, but good structure and body.

Very Good
$45 at Marquis

Clos Puy Arnaud Cotes du Castillon 2005

A minty cool nose, the palate on this was quite different from all other Bordeaux’s I’ve had so far – clay-like even. I have a hard time placing this. Long finish.

Very Good
$55 at Marquis

Chateau Beau Soleil Pomerol 2005

Very very nice. Chocolatey, funky and flinty that had superb length and structure. Finesse and elegance abound.

Excellent
$65 at Marquis

Duhart-Milon Pauillac 2005

Woody, dark berries, cassis. A potent palate with less finesse than the Pomerol, but with the structure to last quite some time. This needs the most age out of all of the Bordeauxs.

Very Good+
$110 at Marquis

Languedoc/Roussillon/Provence

Chateau de Cazeneuve Pic St. Loup 2004

100% Roussane. Honeyed and floral nose that was rich and round. I really enjoyed this and would pick it up again.

Very Good
$30 at Marquis

Tardieu-Laurent Les Grands Augustins 2006

Peppery sweet fruit. I was expecting a bit more balance, but this was certainly flavourful and again it isn’t over the top so it can pair well with food.

Good+
$20 at Marquis

Domaine Tempier Bandol Classique 2004

Mmmmmourvedre. Ok, that was bad. Funky sweet dark berries with real intensity. I love he colour on this – very dark and rich. I would love to try their higher end bottlings because this was quite good, balanced, and not at all clumsy, which I’ve experienced with other Mourvedres before (this is blended, though).

Very Good
$39 at Marquis

Clos des Fees Rousillon Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2004

Apparently this is getting very good press in France. Very unique nose, with foresty, maybe pine-like characteristics. I also got pepper, earth, and some sort of barn animal. Still tannic, this needs time, but I am intrigued.

Very Good to very Good+
$53 at Marquis

Rhone

L’Oratoir St. Martin Blanc, Cairanne 2005

I’ve had this before, but it tasted better tonight. Rousanne/Marsanne blend: honeyed and floral with good rich flavour.

Very Good
$34 at Marquis

Grand Nicolet, Cotes du Rhone 2006

All the 2006′s I’ve tasted from the Southern Rhone are really shaping up fantastically and this is another stellar example. Cool minty aromatics with nice dark sweet fruits like plums and blackberries. I enjoyed the balance and concentration of the wine and found it very expressive and approachable. A fantastic value.

Excellent
$22 at Marquis

Mas de Boislauzon Cotes du Rhone 2006

Thie is classic CDR: peppery, gamey, brambly fruit. Very enjoyable, but a little less balance and finesse than the Nicolet. I certainly want to try Boislauzon’s Chateaneuf, however.

Very Good
$22 at Marquis

Domaine Monardiere Vacqueyras 2006

A farmy wine with good flavour but somewhat clumsy structure. Unfortunately, I don’t have the greatest notes for this.

Very Good
$30 at Marquis

Domaine la Barroche Reserve Chateaneuf-du-pape 2005

Very nice purity of fruit – fantastic concentration in the very authentic red and dark berry flavours: raspberry and blackberry dominate. The potency is coupled with pretty serious tannins right now, but I think in 5 years this will be stellar. Certainly a good value.

Excellent
$50 at Marquis

Free House Wine and Spirits (Importer)

Cousino-Macul Sauvignon Gris 2007

A unique pre-phyloxera Bordeaux variety that stood out as a peachy, orange and grapefruit concoction without the cheap tang of crappy whites. A modest use of oak gives complexity while not dominating the fruit. A balanced wine with acidity.

Very Good
$20

Chateau Montfaucon Baron Luis Cote du Rhone 2005

Much better than the last time I tried this, but still too expensive for what you get. Licorice and earth with subdued fruit. I was hoping for a little more fruit purity, but this does have structure and finesse that gives it ageability.

Very Good
$34

Chateau Pesquie Quintessence Cotes du Ventoux 2004

Big blockbuster wine. Less structure, but more power than the Montfaucon. Minty dark fruits with a real punch. A question of style preference.

Very Good
$30

Charton Hobbs (Importer)

Domaine La Lieu Organic Chardonnay vintage?

Classic orchard peachy and a little creamy chardonnay. Nothing that blows you away, but very few chards at this price come close.

Very Good
$16

Paul Mas “Clos des Mures” Coteaux du languedoc vintage?

Big black fruits. Drinks well now with solid integration. A good value, but made more in the new world style.

Very Good
$23

So, those are the wines I enjoyed most at the tasting. I appreciated the quality brought by small french producers at outstanding value and if anything this tasting demonstrated the importance of supporting lesser known and unrated wine makers.

Super-Premium Aussie Wine Tasting

I decided to take my last tasting group on a bit of a bonanza through some expensive and iconic wines from Australia (unfortunately no Grange). We tasted through 6 bottles of leading Aussie wine, with fairly differing results from the Crowd. All were well made and tasty, but there was a clear ‘winner’ for me that greatly surpassed the others. Let’s take a look at the wines.

Wine #1: Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay
Vintage: 2003
Region: Margaret River, Western Australia

This wine has been hailed by many as Australia’s best Chardonnay. Penfolds’ Yattarna is usually included in that group, and I have previously tasted that as well. We were definitely drinking this too young as it probably needs another 5-10 years in the bottle to fully expand. The nose was very tropical with a touch of vanillan oak. Liquid crystal in the glass, this was quite pure and pristine to look at. The palate, though, was quite subtle with hazlenut, pineapple and other tropical fruits, striking minerality and subtle toast. With a silky and very supple texture, this Chard had a lot to offer, but was not neraly complex or bracing enough for me at this price point. I definitely preferred the Yattarna for its bracing acidity and ripping minerality. With age, though, that could be another story.

Very Good+
$115 at Kits Wine Cellar

Wine #2: Clonakilla Shiraz/Viognier
Vintage: 2004
Region: New South Wales, South East Australia

These guys pretty much represent the top of the line for Shiraz/Viognier cote-rotie style blends in Australia. Made in limited quantities and with a reputation that sees them sell-out quite quickly I was happy to see this at the local wine store. The nose was incredibly aromatic with earth, honey, intense violets, eucalyptus and spice. So incredibly profound. The palate, however, brough this to another level for me with perhaps one of the most unique and alluring mix of flavours I have yet tasted: floral and violets, pepper, suppple red fruits, and an endless finish. This wine exhudes elegance and profundity in its structure and balance. The best Australian wine I have ever had, and one of the best I’ve had period.

Excellent+
$90 at Kits Wine Cellar

Wine #3: Ben Glaetzer Amon-Ra Shiraz
Vintage: 2006
Region: Barossa, South Australia

Glaetzer is a bit of a hot shot wine maker who has steadily increased his profile over the years. This is his pet-project wine and the flagship of the Glaetzer range. Made from 110 year old vines and unfiltered the nose on this wine had confection, chocolate/mocha, and expansive cherry aromas. Very balanced, creamy, and far more elegant than I expected, this had a fantastic structure with a very thoughtful amount of acidity. Its richness was complimented fantastically by aged Gouda. 99 Points from Parker.

Excellent
$85 at BCLDB

Wine #4: Mollydooker Carnival of Love Shiraz
Vintage: 2006
Region: McLaren Vale, South Australia

A controversial wine made in a hyper-manipulated and extracted style. This has become a critic’s darling and was named as #7 wine of 2008 by Wine Spectator. I have previously had the Mollydooker ‘Boxer’ Shiraz which I didn’t like that much, although I recognized that others would. This, however, as a big improvement on that with an extremely confection heavy and rich nose that expanded into a palate of cassis, coffee and candy floss. It was a pretty simple flavour, but it did it to the best of its ability. A sweet style shiraz, but this was way better balanced than the Boxer. I liked it, but did not love it.

Very Good+
$100 at BCLDB

Wine #5: Clarendon Hills Hickinbotham Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
Vintage: 2004
Region: McLaren Vale, South Australia

Known for creating controversial, super intense and massive wines, the winemaker Roman Bratasiuk has established himself as one of the most lauded and hated winemakers in Australia. That said, I found this to be a quite elegant and well structured cab. While definitely new world, it did not feel hyper-extracted and had a napa-like bouquet of leather, earth, cedar and mint, which extended into the palate. Very nicely made and not what I was expecting.

Excellent
$100 at BCLDB

Wine #6: St. Hallet Old Block Shiraz
Vintage: 2004
Region: Barossa, South Australia

St. Hallet is a Grant Burge project, and Grant Burge is considered one of the best wine makers in Australia. The Old Block is one of Australia’s most famous shiraz’s. This was pure barossa goodness, with great purity of fruit and an unashamedly Australia style. The nose was spicey with rich black and red fruits, with the palate peppery and cherry filled. A great drinking wine, but lacking the complexity of the majority of the other wines we tasted.

Very Good+
$65 at BCLDB

An Evening with Catena Zapata

Yesterday I had the good fortune of winning a contest to dine with the wine educator Jeff Mausbach from Catena Zapata and taste a full range of their high end wines. I was joined by 4 other winners, all of whom were very nice and very much unpretentiously passionate about wine, and the rep from the wine importing company that brings Catena into Canada (Calibrium) who was also quite insightful about the wine business. It was a great night and a great chance to taste some brilliant Argentine wines. I drank everything with lamb chops – a very nice combination.

A little bit on Catena Zapata: a winery that takes their wine making very very seriously, sparing no expense, these guys have been experimenting for decades to find the perfect vineyard sites and blends to make wines that can compete with the best in the world. Nicolas Catena apparently holds a PhD in statistical economics and taught for two years at Berkeley in the 80′s, all the while visiting wineries in Napa and honing his techniques. Often taking years to experiment before releasing any wine, Catena has a very serious attitude towards quality. Jeff at the dinner put it well when he said a mantra of the winery is a famous quote from a french winemaker that “tradition is an experiment that worked”. An interesting premise that exposes the relationship between risk, innovation and cultural acclimation. Catena certainly has an interesting philosophy of wine and wine-making, and I think this shows very well in their wines.

Before the dinner, I attended an in-store tasting with Catena of several of their ‘lower end’ wines, all of which were quite impressive for their price point, and I will start with my impressions of those.

Alamos Chardonnay 2007

On the nose I got toasty vanilla and pineapple, with the palate continuing the pineapple trend into citrus territory. There was a relatively strong sense of oak on the back end, but this was buoyed by a solid acidic structure that made this really stand out for its price.

Very Good
$15 at Everything Wine

Alamos Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

Light in colour for Cabernet, this wasn’t what I expected. A light berry nose of raspberry and blackberry was doubled in the palate and coupled by a very subtle touch of oak, and, again, firm acidity. The tannins were quite subdued with this very food friendly but also very light Cabernet. A good value.

Very Good
$18 at Everything Wine

Alamos Syrah 2006

Adding weight as I moved along the reds, this syrah was quite fantastic in its minerality and roundness of flavour. Cherries and currants with secondary flavours of earth, chocolate and coffee, this had impressive structure for its price.

Very Good+
$18 at Everything Wine

Catena Malbec 2006

Entering much richer territory, the Catena Malbec had a big meaty nose coupled with cassis and a touch of old world funk. The palate offered pepper, coffee, vanilla, and a very long finish for this price point. Perhaps slightly hot in the back end, this was very slight and would probably diminish with one hour of decanting. This, to me, is an everyday wine par excellence.

Very Good+ to Excellent
$23 at Everything Wine

After the in-store tasting, we headed off to Arm’s Reach Bistro in Deep Cove for a fantastic flight of high end Catena goodness, starting with a white…

Catena Alta Chardonnay 2005

A very well made buttery style chard that yet had sufficient restraint to prevent it from becoming an ‘oak monster’. A big nose of very rich nectarine and plush citrus fruits, the palate coupled the fruityness with creamy and caramelly oak. Yet, as with all the wines from Catena I had tasted up to this point, the core of acidity was well placed and held the wine up very well. While I tend to like slightly less oaky and creamy chardonnays, this is a superb example of that style.

Very Good+
$40 at Everything Wine

Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Now we’re talking. A fantastic plummy, blackberry, chocolate and Eucalyptus nose that expanded into cedar, bitter chocolate and plum on the palate. A big fruit-driven wine that was still very very balanced. I found this cab to be quite napa-like, but I would expect to pay twice this in napa for the same quality. The cab also had a very solid integrative structure, and fine tannins that lifted the fruit into a very full-bodied palate.

Excellent
$54 at Everything Wine

Catena Alta Malbec 2005

One important item to note was that the serving temperature of all these wines was perfect, probably sitting at around 14-15 degrees. The temperature really helped bring out the fruit and purity of the wine and I think was essential to their quality. The Malbec had a plummy and earthy nose, but was fruitier and perhaps even richer than the cab. The palate was earthy and gamey, and reminded me a little of a good southern rhone wine, without any rough edges. The astonishing thing to me with all the wines was the perfect balance they achieved between alcohol, acidity, oak, fruit, tannin and secondary flavours. It was a remarkable achievement. Personally I think this Malbec maybe needed a little more bottle age to show its full complexity, but was quite a fantastic wine nontheless.

Very Good+ to Excellent
$65 at Everything Wine or BCLDB

Nicolas Catena Zapata 2004

What a stunner. A blend of 78% Cab and 22% Malbec, this wine could easily be compared to top-fight wines from around the world. Wines, that is, that sell for substantially more dollars. A rich super-intense nose of briar fruit, eucalyptus, and cream puff – not explosive, but incredibly expressive. While the palate had great purity in its blackberry and cassis fruit, this wine was all about finesse, impressive structure, and balance very very rarely seen in wine. With the lamb chops this stood out as the ideal pairing. Truly world-class – this is a must buy for me.

Excellent+
$110

So, in the end, a fantastic event that I was very pleased to be a part of. This experience has convinced me of the world-class quality of wines available from Argentina and I will never forget the stunning revelation of the last wine. Thanks to all who made this possible, and thanks, mostly, to the winemaker. A Bodega worth noticing.

2005 Bordeaux Tasting

Today I was lucky enough to attend a 2005 Bordeaux tasting. Vintage hype is perhaps one of the more annoying things in wine, but it does have substance behind the superlatives. Sometimes the substance is not equivalent to the hyperbole, however, and so this chance to check out Bordeaux’s ‘Vintage of the Century’ was incredibly useful and fun. I tasted the following 12 wines:

Chateau Cornélie, Haut-Médoc

Long, structured blackberry flavour. Rough around the edges and very tannic, but good value.

Very Good
$35

Chateau d’Escurac, Médoc

Gamey and woody, with a long finish for this price point. Felt somewhat boring to me, though – and it needed more fruit.

Very Good
$40

Chateau Olivier, Pessac-Léognan

Nicely refined, with incredible structure. Cherry and backberry fruit was still very tight, but this has great potential and is a steal at this price.

Very Good+
$60

Chateau Grand Mayne, Saint-Emilion

This had large black current fruit that was well balanced with an earthy briariness. Tasted like dried shrubs and earth. A very nice flavour profile was unfortunately let down somewhat by a short finish.

Very Good
$110

Clos du Marquis, Saint-Julien

The second wine of Leoville Las-Casses, the 05 Clos du Marquis had incredible structure and an endless finish. It’s relatively high acidity and muscled but very refined tannins ensure this is one to cellar for a long time. The fruit (classic blackberry and cassis) was very well integrated. Incidentally, this is also the one wine I picked up.

Excellent
$110

Chateau Duhart-Milon, Pauillac

Very nice aromatics on this gamey and woody wine. Tart and tannic, but perhaps a little simple for the price. Still, if the palate opens up with time to offer what the nose promises, this could be fantastic.

Very Good
$110

Chateau Balthus, Bordfeaux Supérieur

A garagiste operation with extremely small yields. This 100% merlot wine had exceptional structure, with sweet fruit and wood, with a touch of damp earth. Merlot rarely tasted this good. Made in a more forward style for earlier drinking than the classic Bordeauxs.

Very Good+ to Excellent
$120

Chateau Pichon-Longueville “Comtesse de Lalande”, Pauillac

Ah, the super seconds. Gamey cassis again. But the higher growths are all about structure and elegance. This was very long and full in the mouth, with all the flavours well matched and brought into a refined finish. Very nice stuff, but didn’t blow me away.

Very Good+
$250

Chateau Montrose, Saint-Estephe

Very big, chocolatey, herbal, but with sweeter riper fruit than the Pichon Lalande. This had what I would call a full structure, with no holes in development and tons of aging potential. I also loved the integration and boldness of the palate.

Excellent
$250


Chateau Palmer, Margaux

A third growth, but with the reputation to match the super seconds. This was miles beyond all the other wines we tasted. I have rarely tasted a wine with such incredible refinement and balance. The fruit had a beautiful flavour to it and layers and layers of complexity. I could imagine drinking this in 30-40 years and it still being exceptional. If I could afford it I would have picked it up.

Excellent+
$500

Chateau Lafaurie-Peygraguey, Sauternes

Great value. Tons of grapefruit and great acidity make this a beautiful little dessert wine. Perhaps a little one dimensional right now, the complexity will open up with a little time.

Very Good+
$50

Chateau Suduiraut, Sauternes

Hands down THE BEST dessert wine I have ever tasted. Stupidly I did not pick any up, but if some survives the rush I may have to go back and get a bottle. This was like white berry and apricot confit made with the perfect balance of sugar and acid. The structure could send this into the next decade. Brilliant!

Excellent+
$75

In the final analysis: yes the wines live up to the hype. Yes you should buy some. Yes they are worth the money.

Les Pallieres Vertical

I ran this vertical tasting on one of my favourite southern Rhone wines some time ago and am glad to finally be able to put the experience to electrons. Our group tasted a 2003, 2004, and 2005 Les Pallieres Gigondas, all of which had something interesting to offer. Here are the notes, beginning with an overview of each vintage.

2003: The southern Rhone needed patience in harvesting since drought delayed ripening. The grapes were perfectly healthy and quality was exceptional, despite a slight lack of acidity. The wines have high alcohol levels and very rich, mature tannins: the 2003s will keep for a very long time.

2004: After the 2002 rains and the heat wave of 2003, 2004 marked a return to a classic vintage in the Rhone Valley. Very favourable weather conditions during September produced healthy ripe grapes. The harvest schedule was normal: between September 6 and mid-October. Concentration is remarkable and alcohol levels are quite high, but the consequences of 2003 are still visibile: yields are 20 percent lower than normal. in the south, the 2004′s seem better balanced than the 2003s.

2005: A rainy spring, a dry summer, and a bright, sunny September gave a winning ticket to the Rhone Valley in 2005. With a maturity that came early, this vintage has produced rich though extremely balanced wines. In the south, the 2005s could match the excellent 1990s. The Grenache is stunning, with a remarkable balance between alcohol, fruit, and acidity. Yields were generous.

Wine #1 – Les Pallieres Gigondas 2003

Cherry, peppery and a bit tart. This had a moderate body, but was full flavoured with mid-grained tannins and classic scorched earth flavours. What makes this stand out is its bouquet and roundness, especially when paired appropriately (try it with braised short ribs). Perhaps my favourite vintage of this wine as it keeps evolving everytime I taste it.

Excellent

Wine #2 – Les Pallieres Gigondas 2004

Super fruity, up front and in your face. This had a shorter finish than the 03, and perhaps was slightly unbalanced with a tad too much alcohol on the way down. I also missed some of the earthy and peppery notes of the 03. Still good, but perhaps less well structured than the previous year.

Very Good+

Wine #3 – Les Pallieres Gigondas 2005

This wine still needs time to develop. The nose was surprisingly thin and overall the wine was much more closed than 03 and 04. However, the fruit was pure and very balanced with notes of chocolate and cherry. What marks this as special, though, is its amazing elegance for a Grenache. Perhaps not typical for southern Rhone, I still think this will be absolutely fantastic in a few years when some bottle age gives fuller expression to the brilliant fruit lying in waiting for the patient.

Very Good (I’m guessing will be Excellent in 1-2 years)

$40/bottle across the board