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Aug
25

Is Chardonnay the Most Diverse Grape in the World?

To set this post, I have purposefully asked a complex question with a complex answer. Despite its seemingly simple base form, Chardonnay does not reveal itself with simple explanations. Chardonnay

Grivot is one of my favourite producers of Vosne. Their Vosne village is always outstanding, but this single vineyard from 2011 (a challenging vintage) was full of game, ripe red fruit and intangible greatness. The Pratt vineyard from Littorai is epic. Pratt is perhaps the most aromatic vineyard in the Sonoma Coast (or close to it) and Ted Lemon's version, with its refined tannic structure and tremendous lift, is serious and beautiful with a touch of bottle age.

Jul
28

Some New World Wines Showing Favourably Alongside Burgundy

Wine competition is more intense now than any time in the history of the commercial wine industry. This has pushed quality in every region higher and faster – even a

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Jun
30

Two Modernist Brunellos from 2004

There is, understandably, a cult for the great traditionalists across the storied regions of Europe. Such wines tend to express terroir more consistently and transparently. Brunello di Montalcino is a

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May
31

A Parade of Barolo

Never-tiring and always inspiring, I’ve been fortunate to drink several top Barolo producers and crus in the last few months. Cavallotto remains a favourite producer, and the estate’s two great single-vineyard

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Mar
5

Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus 2007

I am old enough to have witnessed the shift from house champagnes to grower champagnes in North America’s major wine markets. Today, grower champagne has exploded, particularly among the Millennial

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Sep
20

Eric Texier Domaine de Pergaud St-Julien en St-Alban Vieille Serine 2013

There’s natural wine, and then there are well-farmed grapes made without SO2 addition. This wine is in the latter camp. The tannin of the 70 year old Serine (an old

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May
27

A Few Notable Bottles of Boutique and Cult White Burgundy

The British Columbia market is quite limited in its burgundy selections, particularly white burgundy. We mostly have access to the large negocients and large producers. We are lucky to see

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May
24

Reflections on Mid-2000’s Burgundy

The inimitable Pinot Noirs of Burgundy require regular revisiting. The typical comments about Burgundy’s unevenness misconstrue why the region is always among the best in the world for terroir-driven wine.

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Mar
16

Spotlight on Napa Valley: Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Napa is a challenging place for wine lovers today. The wines are almost inimitably expensive, save Bordeaux. The once storied valley is replete with overripe wines. But, times are changing.

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Nov
14

Of Proteus and Chardonnay

Chardonnay is somewhat like a faceless man – it takes on character of site and cellar with uncanny ease. There may be no core essence to Chardonnay but it holds