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Mar
11

Cornas

Stereotypical Cornas is “burly” and tannic. Nonsense. The greatest producers in Cornas produce wines of lithe complexity and deeply focused intellectualism. I now understand why so few appreciate these wines.

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Mar
5

Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus 2007

I am old enough to have witnessed the shift from house champagnes to grower champagnes in North America’s major wine markets. Today, grower champagne has exploded, particularly among the Millennial

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Feb
3

Mayer Gamay 2017

Gamay. So hot right now. Rob McMillan’s latest state of the wine industry report provides the key insight that millennials are drinking less wine, particularly fine wine, and this portents a

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Nov
22

Old and Good: Barolo, Burgundy and … Champagne

Sometimes there are those nights where everything is on point. Accompanied by wonderfully executed food at Cinara, each of the following was in peak form: Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet 2014 Diebolt-Vallois

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Oct
21

1978 Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande … and Other Wine

40 year old wine is always a journey, sometimes into dissapointment, always into variability, and occassionally into greatness. While this 1978 Pichon-Lalande was not at the apex of aged Bordeaux,

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Sep
30

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin Le Banc 2016

Pierre-Yves founded his domaine with family vineyards in 2006, after having spent about a decade as winemaker at his family’s domaine “Marc Colin”.  In the mere decade since founding his

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Sep
9

Jean-Louis Dutraive Fleurie 2016

Jean-Louis Dutraive runs one of the most important domaines in Beaujolais. Not only is he a leader in low-impact farming and semi-carbonic, low SO2 winemaking, but he is one of

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Aug
23

Sandhi Chardonnay ‘Rita’s Crown’ Sta. Rita Hills 2012

What I dream of is an art of balance. This famous line of Henri Matisse emblazons each bottle of Raj Parr and Sashi Moorman’s Sandhi project. Sandhi revolutionized Chardonnay in

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Jul
19

Bodegas Y Vinedos Alion 1998

Rioja gets most of the attention for the softer-style of age-worthy Tempranillo. Ribera became infected with over-extraction in the 1990’s and 2000’s that undid much of the regions’ potential for

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Jul
10

The Wine and Food of French Basque

In North America, San Sebastian holds the greatest fame in the Basque region of Spain and France. In Europe, however, the sea-side resort of St. Jean De Luz is regularly