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Nov
16

Domaine Hubert Lamy “En Remilly” Saint-Aubin Premier Cru 2016

Climate change and talent are transforming St. Aubin. Olivier Lamy at Domaine Hubert Lamy is a leading light in this appellation, alongside the likes of Pierre Yves Colin-Morey. St. Aubin,

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Nov
4

Eva Fricke Krone Riesling 2017

A surfeit of Riesling is never a bad thing. It’s too bad we don’t drink more of the stuff, particularly from Germany. The range of Riesling produced in that country

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Oct
5

German Wines in Berlin

Berlin is one of the great, historic, tragic, hopeful, and inspiring cities in the world. I recently visited the city for work, but had a bit of time to look

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Aug
25

Is Chardonnay the Most Diverse Grape in the World?

To set this post, I have purposefully asked a complex question with a complex answer. Despite its seemingly simple base form, Chardonnay does not reveal itself with simple explanations. Chardonnay

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Jul
21

Sandlands Red Table Wine 2017

Sandlands “Red Table Wine” is the archetype of what a great California red should be. Fruity and bright, fresh, a supple tannic grip, and mid-palate depth from that California sun

Cristom

Jul
10

A Few Thoughts On the Oregon Wine Trail

What is intellectual pleasure in wine? For a professional, is there pressure to intellectualize wine? For a consumer, is there inertia to sensualize wine? The present mantra is to democratize

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Jun
30

Two Modernist Brunellos from 2004

There is, understandably, a cult for the great traditionalists across the storied regions of Europe. Such wines tend to express terroir more consistently and transparently. Brunello di Montalcino is a

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May
5

Is Pinot Noir the Most Interesting Grape in the World?

This question may seem audacious, but it deserves serious consideration. The criteria for interest are (1) diversity of flavour, texture, and structural profiles; (2) that diversity derives from both site

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Mar
11

Cornas

Stereotypical Cornas is “burly” and tannic. Nonsense. The greatest producers in Cornas produce wines of lithe complexity and deeply focused intellectualism. I now understand why so few appreciate these wines.

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Mar
5

Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus 2007

I am old enough to have witnessed the shift from house champagnes to grower champagnes in North America’s major wine markets. Today, grower champagne has exploded, particularly among the Millennial